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Re: 009 timing and other ?s

> sometime, someone said that the timing mark for TDC on the type 3 engine 
> was the mark farthest to the RIGHT on the pulley, and no one corrected
> him.  Is this because this is correct?  The manuals have me confused as
> well.  Muir (pg 110 in my edition) shows the mark farthest to the left as
> 5 deg ATDC, the next to the right as 0 deg TDC, the next as 7.5 deg BTDC,
> and the final mark as 10 deg BTDC (this, incidently, is the mark to which 
> I currently have my engine timed.  By the way, it's a 73 1600cc, single
> carb, converted from FI).  Bentley (pg 53) seems to show the mark furthest
> to the left as 0 deg TDC, and then two marks over as 5 deg BTDC

There are different marks in different years.  The Bentley manual is 
correct, but you have to make sure you're looking at the right 
picture.  I don't think the right mark was ever TDC.

> I also have a question about the brakes.  Firstly, for the disc pads, all
> the manuals show or describe pads with a central groove.  Upon inspection
> of mine, I found no groove, so I bought a new set, that turned out not to 
> have the groove either.  Is this typical?

OEM pads from Teves and a few other sources will have both the grove 
and the anti-squeal pad backing.  These sets tend to be expensive and 
hard to find and also don't really perform any better that I have 
been able to tell.

  And, about the rear drums:
> I've tried to get them apart several times, and just cannot.  Tire off,
> two 6mm allen bolts removed, and the drum won't budge.  E-brake is off,
> and the shoes are not engaged, and I can turn the drum around and around.

The drum is rusted to the hub, which is typical.  Get out your 
propane torch and heat the face of the drum just outside of the hub.  
Try to avoid torching through the lug bolt holes so you don't hurt 
anything inside.  At some point the drum will give a big pop and just 
fall loose.  A VERY LIGHT coating of grease on the mating surfaces 
before you put these back together will help prevent this from 
happening in the future.

> I also cannot get the adjuster stars to budge.  I know that a car that has
> sat for this long (2.5 years) will probably have cylinders that need
> attention, and I intend on flushing the entire system to convert to
> silicone fluid, I just want to insure that the cylinders, shoes, lining 
> are in good shape.

You have the right idea.  You can loosen the star wheels with a good 
pair of channel-locks after the drums are off.  Just be careful not 
to ruin the little spring that engages the bottom of the star wheels. 
It's out of sight under there, so its easy to forget about it and 
shear it off with the channel-locks.

Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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