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009 timing and other ?s

Upon getting my re-rebuild up and going (45 miles so far!), I have run
across a few questions.  A few weeks ago, I inquired about a cylinder head
temp gauge, and got a couple of responses.  The consensus seems to be that
the VDO gauges are the best.  Again, what is the optimal temp for the #3
cylinder to run?  Also, who is a good source for these gauges (I have a
FLAPS that dosen't have everything), and how difficult are they to

On to the 009 question:  what is the best timing for these?
>From the Boston Engine page (www.bostonengine.com), Bob recommends a
static timing of 10 deg BTDC, to achieve a total of 32 deg BTDC at speed.
The only reason that this question arises for me is that last week
sometime, someone said that the timing mark for TDC on the type 3 engine 
was the mark farthest to the RIGHT on the pulley, and no one corrected
him.  Is this because this is correct?  The manuals have me confused as
well.  Muir (pg 110 in my edition) shows the mark farthest to the left as
5 deg ATDC, the next to the right as 0 deg TDC, the next as 7.5 deg BTDC,
and the final mark as 10 deg BTDC (this, incidently, is the mark to which 
I currently have my engine timed.  By the way, it's a 73 1600cc, single
carb, converted from FI).  Bentley (pg 53) seems to show the mark furthest
to the left as 0 deg TDC, and then two marks over as 5 deg BTDC.  Chilton
(pg 44) shows only the marks and is not labeled.   My engine runs at idle,
and does not sound like it is preigniting at speed.  But I know that this
dosen't mean that I am not doing damage by having it timed incorrectly.  I
guess that I am after a few more opinions on the subject.
I also have a question about the brakes.  Firstly, for the disc pads, all
the manuals show or describe pads with a central groove.  Upon inspection
of mine, I found no groove, so I bought a new set, that turned out not to 
have the groove either.  Is this typical?  And, about the rear drums:
I've tried to get them apart several times, and just cannot.  Tire off,
two 6mm allen bolts removed, and the drum won't budge.  E-brake is off,
and the shoes are not engaged, and I can turn the drum around and around.
I also cannot get the adjuster stars to budge.  I know that a car that has
sat for this long (2.5 years) will probably have cylinders that need
attention, and I intend on flushing the entire system to convert to
silicone fluid, I just want to insure that the cylinders, shoes, lining 
are in good shape.

A bombardment of questions from a newbie, I know, and I thank you in

73 square

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