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[Fwd: exhaust paint]

Somehow, this got sent to me only.  I talked to Scott at AirBorne
Coatings in Oklahoma about powder coating the engine tin for the 2L type
III project, and he told me all about their aluminuim/ceramic exhaust
coatings at the same time.  I almost hung up the phone and went home to
get my heater boxes!  Sounds really cool, I'll let you know what
happens.  Engine tin is heading out in the morning.

Jake "Sorry to kind of take over your message, instead of just
forwarding it, Jerry" Kooser

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From: "Dragonyte" <Dragonyte@amaonline.com>
To: <jake_k@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: exhaust paint
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 14:22:36 -0500
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I also used a store bought product that has worked for the 4 months on my
daily driver. (I didn't figure it would work five minutes.) I went to our
local Wally world and bought a can of barbecue grill paint. Sprayed it on
my headers and (let them dry of course) away I went. You can tell where the
coverage was better in places, but the headers are still covered with the

Just trying to help out.

Jerry Morris
69 Squareback
65 Bug 

> From: Jake Kooser <jake_k@ibm.net>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: exhaust paint
> Date: Tuesday, June 16, 1998 10:08 PM
> A buddy of mine's dad does metal sculpture, and he turned me on to a
> really good treatment to keep steel for rusting.  He uses an actual
> store-bought product, but showed me that wiping a HOT exhaust (run the
> engine for 15 minutes or so) with some WD-40 or oil will cause the metal
> to turn black, and ultimately return to a "bare" metal appearance.  This
> is best done on either an exhaust that is already rusted - after
> cleaning it up with sandpaper or Scotch-Brite pads, or on a bare metal
> exhaust.  Obviously, be careful putting the stuff on the hot exhaust.
> When my zooper beetle, Barney, had it's valve cover sealing issues, oil
> dumped all over the single quiet pack muffler, and now it looks like new
> on one end, and rusted at the collector end, so I know it works with
> regular oil too.
> Jake Kooser

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