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Re: type3-d Digest V98 #184

On 28 Jul 98, at 4:57, STUFFNHECH@aol.com wrote:

> One thing that did help me is to remove the studs and clean
> up the threads with the correct size tap (8mm I think), also tighten down all
> the bolts. The tap ran me around $2 and all new studs were a quarter each.

How did you get the old studs out?  They are an interference fit and 
will break before they screw out.

> I've noticed a slight oil leak
> from the valve covers. Yes I replaced the gaskets, and I put sealant on the
> cover side only. Should I put sealant on BOTH sides? 

NO!!!!!  You'll never get them off again!!!

> I've been told to bend
> the bales tighter, and to get new valve covers. Is this necessary? The oil
> drips down and soaks into the heater box wrappings, where it burns off,
> emitting a foul odor and clouds of white smoke i could do without, Thanx for
> all help. 

Bales can lose their tension if someone tries to pry them up instead 
of down to get the covers off, but they can usually be bent back.  
You should make sure the cover is positioned correctly, and you 
should take the covers off and make sure the gaskets are in the right 
position; sometimes they slip.  Carefully clean, but don't scratch, 
the mating surface of the head to make sure there is nothing stuck 
there that will keep the gasket from sealing.

The most common problem is with poorly made (cheap) gaskets, which 
are undersize or too thin.

Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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