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type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote: > > Subject: > > type3-d Digest Volume 98 : Issue 153 > > Today's Topics: > Dellorto main jets [ zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> ] > RE: Dellorto main jets [ "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.c ] > Re: what year is it?? [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: rear engine mount [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: what year is it?? [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > questions.... [ ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad) ] > Re: floor pans [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: UGH!!!!! doing that vin number t [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding.. [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dua [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding.. [ ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad) ] > Year sticker [ zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> ] > Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dua [ stans4@ibm.net (Stan Schaefer) ] > Fw: T3 Catalogs [ "Gus Georgakoulias" <ggkoul@sprint. ] > Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding.. [ "John M. Kowalski" <john.kowalski@z ] > Delloto jets; again [ zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> ] > T3 Catalogs [ "Gus Georgakoulias" <ggkoul@sprint. ] > Re: questions.... [ "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@telep ] > Fiberglass bashing ( a bit long - so [ JJaranson@aol.com ] > Re: floor pans [ "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@telep ] > Plastic Seat Rails and other parts [ JJaranson@aol.com ] > [ "Renier Marais" <JHB2I06@jhb2.pwv.g ] > Re: help! [ Toby Basiliko <toby@wolfenet.com> ] > Re: rear engine mount [ "John R. Jetty" <jjetty@pahrump.com ] > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Dellorto main jets > Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 15:53:01 -0600 > From: zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPP! > > I need a source for Dellorto FRD main jets! I know the company is no > longer around, but I am running way to rich. I need main jets in the > 108 to 112 range. I need 2. If you know a source, or are a source, I > will boldly proclaim you to the list as my hero. I will say it daily, > if necessary. I need help, or the car isn't going any where. > > Brian Fye > 64 Notch auto > 67 Square-trying hard to run > 67 Square-giving it's life that others might live > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: RE: Dellorto main jets > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 15:19:00 -0700 > From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com> > To: "\"type3@vwtype3.org\" " <type3@vwtype3.org> > > CB Performance. http://www.cbperformance.com/ > > Just once is enough ;) > Toby Erkson > air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email > '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed > '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member > Portland, Oregon, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8501/ > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: "zoofye" [SMTP:zoofye@pophost.micron.net] > >Sent: Thursday, July 09, 1998 2:53 PM > >To: "type3@vwtype3.org" [SMTP:type3@vwtype3.org] > >Subject: Dellorto main jets > > > > > >HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPP > >PPPPPPPP! > > > >I need a source for Dellorto FRD main jets! I know the company is no > >longer around, but I am running way to rich. I need main jets in the > >108 to 112 range. I need 2. If you know a source, or are a source, I > >will boldly proclaim you to the list as my hero. I will say it daily, > >if necessary. I need help, or the car isn't going any where. > > > >Brian Fye > >64 Notch auto > >67 Square-trying hard to run > >67 Square-giving it's life that others might live > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: what year is it?? > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 19:58:41 -0600 > From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > > well here is the story. i have a notchback that has had its front > > clip and pan replaced some years back. the vin number on the current pan > > is from a 64. the supposedly original vin number from the original pan > > is also from a 63. the person i bought it off of swears it is a 65. to > > make things worse the title has it registered as a 65 but the vin number > > matches a 64. how is that for a mess!! i have heard vw sometimes stamped > > the date on certain parts throughout the car. true or false?? is there > > any way i can determine what year my car is??? > > The year of your car is determined by its VIN. I believe there are > only two VINs on the car in your era: stamped on the top of the pan > tunnel under the back seat, and stamped on a silver tag in the > trunk.. If they match there is no question. If they don't match > most DMVs go with the number on the pan. > > I believe it is standard procedure in a case like this to look at > this car and take the point of view that it is an original pan that > has had a few body parts replaced. > > In later years the VIN was also put on the dash and inside the > drivers side door jamb. I don't think there are any other places. > > Jim > - > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: rear engine mount > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 19:58:41 -0600 > From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > > any one know where I could find a rear engine mount for my 68 Square I got > > almost all of the other parts I need tracked down except that. > > You could use the part from any year upto or including 68. OTOH, it > really doesn't do anything, so you really can just do without it. > > Jim > - > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: what year is it?? > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:17 -0600 > From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > On 8 Jul 98 at 22:21, type3@vwtype3.org wrote: > > > andy almstrom wrote: > > i have heard vw sometimes stamped > > > the date on certain parts throughout the car. true or false?? is there > > > any way i can determine what year my car is??? > > > > Someone else can add to this list, but here goes: > > *Back of the clock (other guages?) > > *Under sides of all vinyl paded parts (dash pad, early style arm rests, > > etc), very hard to read ink. > > *Some of the relays (emergency flasher) > > Short list, drawing a blank tonight... > > The PARTS that are dated have the date that the PART was made. The > only date that I know of that VW put on the cars was the sticker in > the driver's side door jamb of late models that gave the month and > year of production. I'm not sure when this sticker started to > appear, but it may have been around 1970, and even then only for US > cars. Of course other markets could have their own stickers and I > would never have seen one of them. > > Jim > - > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: questions.... > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 98 19:26:52 PST8PDT > From: ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad) > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > Hi, > > I was messing around with the pedal assembly, and the > pedal fell foreward and the cable managed to come loose. How do I reconnect > it?? > > I bought remanufactured late model calipers from Bill & Steve's, and they > had only 1 bleeder valve on them. Is that normal? I thought they had 2. Well, > I put them on, with the bleeder valve on the down side. Is this ok? Should it > be on the top? Does it make a difference? > > TIA, > Chad > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: floor pans > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:17 -0600 > From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > On 8 Jul 98 at 21:35, type3@vwtype3.org wrote: > > > I just purchased a 1970 square. There is major rust of course on the > > passenger side, but it is also bad back by the tailgate area inside > > where the side window leaked. What does anyone say about fiberglass > > floor pans? any Ideas how to fix the back area? This car is a roller no > > eng or trans is it wrth the effort to do the total car or part it out? > > Rust in the rear area is usually due to an improperly installed FI > computer that is not hooked in its opening properly and thus doesn't > seal. This is easy to fix and my experience with them is that 100% > of the cars I see are done wrong when I first get to them. It's just > due to lazy or ignorant POs or mechanics. > > I would not bother with fiberglass for structural parts, and the pan > is a structural part. > > Jim > - > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: UGH!!!!! doing that vin number twist... > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:17 -0600 > From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > > > * Not with a VIN number that starts with a "311". That would be a > > >1971 and > > > * no other.... > > > > > >Hmm. Check this. Straight from the list. > > > > >Model designations, Typ 3, all models (US & European - includes UK): > > > > > >Model No. Name Production details > > > > > >311 VW 1600 TL August > > >1965-1973, LHD > > >311 VW 1600 T August > > >1968-1973, LHD > > >Do what you will with it! > > >Patrick > > > > And I will do what I will with it! The key here is that this list refers > > to model numbers, not VIN numbers. 311 being of course a fastback. And > > now to quote from the book of Muir... > > Yes, the old confusion between MODEL numbers and CHASSIS numbers (AKA > VINs.) I still don't have the model number thing straight even in my > OWN head. This is one place where I think VW did a bad job: all > their numbers look alike, model #s, VINs, part #s. > > Jim > - > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding.. > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:17 -0600 > From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > > Well after finishing up replacing the brake lines to the rear today, > > I went to bleed them. Undid the bleeder valve...put the hose on, and went to > > pump the pedal......no fluid came out. Pumped it about 25-30 more times and > > nothing. I tried this on the FL, RL and RR. The resovoir is full, and only > > the side for the front went down a little....because when I opened the valve > > some ran out. I know its going to the back because I undid the connection > > from the new tube a little and some came out. Whats going on??? Everything > > on the front end is new and clear from obstructions, as well is everything > > from the > > MC back up to the rear flex lines. I was careful in keeping the lines clean, > > so I hope they are clear. When I pushed the pedal, it made kind of a gushing > > sound, and the pedal feels very mushy even after all those pumps......... > > Did you OPEN the bleed valve? > Try cleaning the dirt out of the core of the bled valve with a small > drill bit twisted in your fingers. > Try taking the bleed valve ALL the way out and clearing the hole > under it out with the same drill bit, then leave the valve out and > pump. > > There are lots of things that can thwart you. Just be imaginative. > > Jim > - > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dual carbs. > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:18 -0600 > From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > On 9 Jul 98 at 13:05, type3@vwtype3.org wrote: > > > I thought that perhaps tapping the carb body could be the answer but > > there isn't enough material and the aluminum is sure to break the first > > time I would turn the fitting. > > > > Can I insert a slightly larger fitting and press fit it back on the carb > > body? Can I weld more material around that area so that it CAN be > > tapped? Can I fire bomb the bum who rebuilt it? > > It probably won't weld, and that would just ruin it anyway. Liquid > solder is a joke, so just throw that stuff away. > > You might try one of the Locktite products. One of these will do > the job for sure. You will need to buy the right product (used to > be called "stud and bearing mount") and get your parts very clean. > I would use Scotchbrite or steel wool on both parts, degrease them, > add a TINY drop of the Locktite, push the parts together and > position them the way you want them to be FOREVER, and let them sit > for 24 hours so the Locktite can cure. Then reassemble the carb and > forget about your leak. > > Jim > - > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding.. > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 98 20:19:03 PST8PDT > From: ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad) > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > >Did you OPEN the bleed valve? > uh huh... > > >Try cleaning the dirt out of the core of the bled valve with a small > >drill bit twisted in your fingers. > >Try taking the bleed valve ALL the way out and clearing the hole > >under it out with the same drill bit, then leave the valve out and > >pump. > > > > It turned out to be the rear flex lines were both plugged. I > replaced them and the fluid came gushing out. > > Thanks ! > > Chad > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Year sticker > Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 21:27:46 -0600 > From: zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > There are manufacture stickers on the door jams of both of my 67 > squares. > > Brian > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dual carbs. > Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 03:32:28 GMT > From: stans4@ibm.net (Stan Schaefer) > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > Have used JB Weld epoxy on electric pumps, supposed to be fuel-proof. > Parts have to be absolutely spotless and you should let it set a > couple of days, but things will never come apart again! All the local > auto parts stores carry it here, most hardware stores have small > tubes, too. > > On Thu, 9 Jul 1998 13:05:58 -0400 , you wrote: > > >I have suffered yet another goddam setback in my restoration of my daily > >driver. I was all set to take it out and drive the damn thing when a > >fuel leak I thought I had fixed several months ago reared its ugly head. > >It seems that several years ago when I had the carbs rebuilt the > >mechanic reinserted the brass fuel fitting using some teflon tape and > >stuck it in there. I looked at it and didn't think too much of it > >until it started to leak recently and then I realized what a problem I > >have. I tried using Liquid Solder but that only worked until yesterday > >when I noticed the leak. > > > >I thought that perhaps tapping the carb body could be the answer but > >there isn't enough material and the aluminum is sure to break the first > >time I would turn the fitting. > > > >Can I insert a slightly larger fitting and press fit it back on the carb > >body? Can I weld more material around that area so that it CAN be > >tapped? Can I fire bomb the bum who rebuilt it? > > > >Everybody get cracking on this. We are not leaving until this is > >fixed!!!! > > > >As a side note: This, to me, seems to be a weakness of the otherwise > >splendid Solex dual carbs. If I, or we, can come up with a solution I > >think we should send out a TSB on it. These carbs are getting rarer by > >the day and we need to keep them on the road. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Fw: T3 Catalogs > Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 00:11:16 -0400 > From: "Gus Georgakoulias" <ggkoul@sprint.ca> > To: "Type3" <type3@vwtype3.org> > > Almost forgot, I also have a VW Parts Catalog for Type 2. > > >To all VW Restorers: > >I have an OFFICIAL VW Type 3 Parts List that I'm willing to > >sell copies of. It lists every part used in any T3 (311-314: 361-364) > >broken down by the major groups: > >Even tells you the colour combinations used from year-to-year. > >It's over 650 pages of parts information on the Type 3. > > > >The way I'm going to price it is, From now, July 9, to July 16, I will be > >taking the names of people who are interested in getting a copy of this > >book. Seeing how many copies I need to produce, the more copies > >ordered, the cheaper the coping cost, the cheaper the price will be. > >Don't worry, before I do anything, I will let you know the cost of the book > >plus > >any shipping costs. > > > >I also have VW PARTS CATALOGS for the Type 1 Ghia, Beetle, > >Type 3 Ghia, Type 4, the Transporter and the Campmobile. They > >also contain every part used in the car by the major groups. > > > >If you are interested in a copies of any off these just email me and I > >can work out a better price if two catalogs or more are ordered. > > > >PLEASE FEEL FREE TO PASS THIS EMAIL ALONG TO > >ANYONE ELSE WHO MAY BE INTERESTED!!! > >Because the more people ordering, the cheaper the price. > > > >Email me if you have any questions, > >Thanks > >Gus > >-1966 T3 Ghia > >-1995 Golf III > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding.. > Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 06:27:17 +0200 > From: "John M. Kowalski" <john.kowalski@zg.tel.hr> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > At 08:57 PM 7/9/98 -0600, you wrote: > > > >> Well after finishing up replacing the brake lines to the rear today, > >> I went to bleed them. Undid the bleeder valve...put the hose on, and > went to > >> pump the pedal......no fluid came out. Pumped it about 25-30 more times and > >> nothing. I tried this on the FL, RL and RR. The resovoir is full, and only > >> the side for the front went down a little.... > >Try taking the bleed valve ALL the way out and clearing the hole > >under it out with the same drill bit, then leave the valve out and > >pump. > > > >There are lots of things that can thwart you. Just be imaginative. > > > >Jim > > I had the same problem in my '72 convertible. I even went so far as to > assume that the master cylinder was shot and replaced it. When the new MC > didn't help, I discovered that I had not adjusted the brake linings yet -- > they were still too far from the brake drums. When I pumped the pedal, the > brake linings moved as they should. I guess the path of least resistance > for the brake fluid was to fill the wheel cylinders thus pushing the brake > linings instead of going through the bleeder valve. Once I adjusted the > brake linings to where they started scraping the brake drum, I pushed on > the pedal, the linings pushed against the brake drums and the fluid came > squirting out the bleeder valve. Voila! > > Like Jim said, just be imaginative. Just don't let yourself get frustrated. > > Good luck > > John > Zagreb, Croatia > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Delloto jets; again > Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 22:04:59 -0600 > From: zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > I still need a source for Dellorto FRD main jets. Toby suggested CB > Performance, but alas, I have contacted them several times and never > gotten a response. Any one else have a suggestion. If I were running > lean I would just tap them out a little at a time, but I have no brass > solder equipement to fill them and re-drill. I have been told that some > solex main jets will work, but don't know. > > Brian > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: T3 Catalogs > Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 00:08:40 -0400 > From: "Gus Georgakoulias" <ggkoul@sprint.ca> > To: "Type3" <type3@vwtype3.org> > > To all VW Restorers: > I have an OFFICIAL VW Type 3 Parts List that I'm willing to > sell copies of. It lists every part used in any T3 (311-314: 361-364) > broken down by the major groups: > Even tells you the colour combinations used from year-to-year. > It's over 650 pages of parts information on the Type 3. > > The way I'm going to price it is, From now, July 9, to July 16, I will be > taking the names of people who are interested in getting a copy of this > book. Seeing how many copies I need to produce, the more copies > ordered, the cheaper the coping cost, the cheaper the price will be. > Don't worry, before I do anything, I will let you know the cost of the book > plus > any shipping costs. > > I also have VW PARTS CATALOGS for the Type 1 Ghia, Beetle, > Type 3 Ghia, Type 4, the Transporter and the Campmobile. They > also contain every part used in the car by the major groups. > > If you are interested in a copies of any off these just email me and I > can work out a better price if two catalogs or more are ordered. > > PLEASE FEEL FREE TO PASS THIS EMAIL ALONG TO > ANYONE ELSE WHO MAY BE INTERESTED!!! > Because the more people ordering, the cheaper the price. > > Email me if you have any questions, > Thanks > Gus > -1966 T3 Ghia > -1995 Golf III > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: questions.... > Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 21:57:12 -0700 > From: "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@teleport.com> > To: type3-list <type3@vwtype3.org> > > Chad wrote: > > > > Hi, > > > > I was messing around with the pedal assembly, and the > > pedal fell foreward and the cable managed to come loose. How do I reconnect > > it?? > > > > I bought remanufactured late model calipers from Bill & Steve's, and they > > had only 1 bleeder valve on them. Is that normal? I thought they had 2. Well, > > I put them on, with the bleeder valve on the down side. Is this ok? Should it > > be on the top? Does it make a difference? > > > > TIA, > > Chad > The single bleeder on disk calipers should be on top. See last weeks > archive at http://www.vwtype3.org for hooking the clutch back up. > > Peter Parker > '66 Square; Phillip > Portland, OR > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Fiberglass bashing ( a bit long - sorry) > Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 01:02:14 EDT > From: JJaranson@aol.com > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > Hello all. I just had to get my .03 cents in here. I have to first say that > I don't necessarily disagree with many of the specific comments made about > fiberglass for structural parts. I do however disagree with the > generalization that is kind of forming the fiberglass parts are no good. > > First of all the fiberglass is only the reinforcement in the composite > ("fiberglass" has come to be a generic term for glass reinforced plastics, > much like "bondo" is for any body filler) The composite material is actually > made up of glass fibers and usually polyester resin. Some composites have > pigments and other fillers in them as well. Higher performance composites use > vinylester and epoxy resins instead of polyester. > > I have built entire automobile body structures (not just the fenders, hood, > and stuff) out of fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) composites while working > at Ford. These prototypes have no steel reinforcements or rails between the > wheels, left to right or front to back. These materials, if used and designed > correctly, can be very structural. They also offer a bunch of benefits over > steel, like better corrosion protection (no rust), lighter weight (25%), > better vibrational characteristics, and better overall vehicle stiffness if > done right. They also offer more design flexibility and much lower tooling > (investment) costs compared to steel. You don't see more composites in cars > today because the raw material costs are higher than steel and the processing > times are considerably longer (1-20 minutes vs. 10 seconds). > > As for the parts (floor pans in particular) offered by the aftermarket > industry for VWs, I have to agree that these parts are not well designed or > built for structural applications. I actually purchased a section of > composite(fiberglass) floorpan from Fiber Innovations for work. The quality > of the part was not very good. I wrote a more detailed message 6-8 months ago > describing my objections to this part and the supplied installation procedure. > I can forward it to anyone that is interested when I get back to work on > Monday. > > I think that for non-structural parts (fenders mostly), the composite parts > out there are fine (from a performance standpoint) even if the quality level > is not so hot and the parts will require a bunch of fitting and finishing. > > OK, I will get off my soapbox for now....I would be happy to discuss the use > of composites in more detail if anyone has specific questions. It is what I > earn my living doing and a favorite topic for me. Watch this space for future > updates on the use of composites in my own 71 Fastback. > > later, > John Jaranson > 71 Fastback > Defender of Composites (Fiberglass) :-) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: floor pans > Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 22:04:04 -0700 > From: "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@teleport.com> > To: type3-list <type3@vwtype3.org> > > Kris Schobert wrote: > This car is a roller no > > eng or trans is it wrth the effort to do the total car or part it out? > > > > Thanks > > Kris > > Where are you located? From Jeff's posting from Sacramento, you can > get an early model roller for a couple hundred bucks! (Cali = no rust). > In the Pacific NW, there is more rust, but a solid roller would be > $500. You're not one of those poor sod's down in Florida are you? > > Peter Parker > '66 Square; Phillip > Portland, OR > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Plastic Seat Rails and other parts > Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 01:31:24 EDT > From: JJaranson@aol.com > To: type3@vwtype3.org > > Thought I would update all on the rails. J_Gurrola claimed all of my seat > rails and has sinced laid first rights to my aluminum sill plates and my lower > rocker trim and clips. I did get all of the dimensions and stuff for the > rails for reproduction/replacement. The rails are actually an injection > molded plastic part with a lot more details in them than I had envisioned. > Making an exact repro would be very expensive, particularly for the low volume > that we would need. I do think that a suitable replacement can be made much > more inexpensively from sheet teflon or other material. I will keep everybody > update on the progress of this one. > > As for the other parts, I am going to be removing much of the stock trim and > interior parts from my 71 Fastback. Let me know what you need and we'll try > to work something out. > > Later, > John Jaranson > 71 Fastback (to be mildly customized) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: > Date: