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type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote:
> 
> Subject:
> 
> type3-d Digest                          Volume 98 : Issue 153
> 
> Today's Topics:
>   Dellorto main jets                    [ zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> ]
>   RE: Dellorto main jets                [ "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.c ]
>   Re: what year is it??                 [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: rear engine mount                 [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: what year is it??                 [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   questions....                         [ ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad) ]
>   Re: floor pans                        [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: UGH!!!!! doing that vin number t  [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding..    [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dua  [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding..    [ ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad) ]
>   Year sticker                          [ zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> ]
>   Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dua  [ stans4@ibm.net (Stan Schaefer) ]
>   Fw: T3 Catalogs                       [ "Gus Georgakoulias" <ggkoul@sprint. ]
>   Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding..    [ "John M. Kowalski" <john.kowalski@z ]
>   Delloto jets; again                   [ zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net> ]
>   T3 Catalogs                           [ "Gus Georgakoulias" <ggkoul@sprint. ]
>   Re: questions....                     [ "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@telep ]
>   Fiberglass bashing ( a bit long - so  [ JJaranson@aol.com ]
>   Re: floor pans                        [ "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@telep ]
>   Plastic Seat Rails and other parts    [ JJaranson@aol.com ]
>                                         [ "Renier Marais" <JHB2I06@jhb2.pwv.g ]
>   Re: help!                             [ Toby Basiliko <toby@wolfenet.com> ]
>   Re: rear engine mount                 [ "John R. Jetty" <jjetty@pahrump.com ]
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Dellorto main jets
> Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 15:53:01 -0600
> From: zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPP!
> 
> I need a source for Dellorto FRD main jets!  I know the company is no
> longer around, but I am running way to rich.  I need main jets in the
> 108 to 112 range.  I need 2.  If you know a source, or are a source, I
> will boldly proclaim you to the list as my hero.  I will say it daily,
> if necessary.  I need help, or the car isn't going any where.
> 
> Brian Fye
> 64 Notch auto
> 67 Square-trying hard to run
> 67 Square-giving it's life that others might live
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: RE: Dellorto main jets
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 15:19:00 -0700
> From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com>
> To: "\"type3@vwtype3.org\" " <type3@vwtype3.org>
> 
> CB Performance.  http://www.cbperformance.com/
> 
> Just once is enough ;)
>    Toby Erkson
>    air_cooled_nut@pobox.com  <-- Please use this address for email
>    '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
>    '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member
>    Portland, Oregon, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8501/
> 
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: "zoofye" [SMTP:zoofye@pophost.micron.net]
> >Sent: Thursday, July 09, 1998 2:53 PM
> >To: "type3@vwtype3.org" [SMTP:type3@vwtype3.org]
> >Subject: Dellorto main jets
> >
> >
> >HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPP
> >PPPPPPPP!
> >
> >I need a source for Dellorto FRD main jets!  I know the company is no
> >longer around, but I am running way to rich.  I need main jets in the
> >108 to 112 range.  I need 2.  If you know a source, or are a source, I
> >will boldly proclaim you to the list as my hero.  I will say it daily,
> >if necessary.  I need help, or the car isn't going any where.
> >
> >Brian Fye
> >64 Notch auto
> >67 Square-trying hard to run
> >67 Square-giving it's life that others might live
> >
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: what year is it??
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 19:58:41 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> >     well here is the story. i have a notchback that has had its front
> > clip and pan replaced some years back. the vin number on the current pan
> > is from a 64. the supposedly original vin number from the original pan
> > is also from a 63. the person i bought it off of swears it is a 65. to
> > make things worse the title has it registered as a 65 but the vin number
> > matches a 64. how is that for a mess!! i have heard vw sometimes stamped
> > the date on certain parts throughout the car. true or false?? is there
> > any way i can determine what year my car is???
> 
> The year of your car is determined by its VIN.  I believe there are
> only two VINs on the car in your era: stamped on the top of the pan
> tunnel under the back seat, and stamped on a silver tag in the
> trunk..  If they match there is no question.  If they don't match
> most DMVs go with the number on the pan.
> 
> I believe it is standard procedure in a case like this to look at
> this car and take the point of view that it is an original pan that
> has had a few body parts replaced.
> 
> In later years the VIN was also put on the dash and inside the
> drivers side door jamb.  I don't think there are any other places.
> 
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: rear engine mount
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 19:58:41 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> > any one know where I could find a rear engine mount for my 68 Square I got
> > almost all of the other parts I need tracked down except that.
> 
> You could use the part from any year upto or including 68.  OTOH, it
> really doesn't do anything, so you really can just do without it.
> 
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: what year is it??
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:17 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> On  8 Jul 98 at 22:21, type3@vwtype3.org wrote:
> 
> > andy almstrom wrote:
> > i have heard vw sometimes stamped
> > > the date on certain parts throughout the car. true or false?? is there
> > > any way i can determine what year my car is???
> >
> >       Someone else can add to this list, but here goes:
> > *Back of the clock (other guages?)
> > *Under sides of all vinyl paded parts (dash pad, early style arm rests,
> > etc), very hard to read ink.
> > *Some of the relays (emergency flasher)
> >       Short list, drawing a blank tonight...
> 
> The PARTS that are dated have the date that the PART was made.  The
> only date that I know of that VW put on the cars was the sticker in
> the driver's side door jamb of late models that gave the month and
> year of production.  I'm not sure when this sticker started to
> appear, but it may have been around 1970, and even then only for US
> cars.  Of course other markets could have their own stickers and I
> would never have seen one of them.
> 
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: questions....
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 98 19:26:52 PST8PDT
> From: ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad)
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I was messing around with the pedal assembly, and the
> pedal fell foreward and the cable managed to come loose. How do I reconnect
> it??
> 
> I bought remanufactured late model calipers from Bill & Steve's, and they
> had only 1 bleeder valve on them. Is that normal? I thought they had 2. Well,
> I put them on, with the bleeder valve on the down side. Is this ok? Should it
> be on the top? Does it make a  difference?
> 
> TIA,
> Chad
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: floor pans
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:17 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> On  8 Jul 98 at 21:35, type3@vwtype3.org wrote:
> 
> > I just purchased a 1970 square. There is major rust of course on the
> > passenger side, but it is also bad back by the tailgate area inside
> > where the side window leaked. What does anyone say about fiberglass
> > floor pans? any Ideas how to fix the back area? This car is a roller no
> > eng or trans is it wrth the effort to do the total car or part it out?
> 
> Rust in the rear area is usually due to an improperly installed FI
> computer that is not hooked in its opening properly and thus doesn't
> seal.  This is easy to fix and my experience with them is that 100%
> of the cars I see are done wrong when I first get to them.  It's just
> due to lazy or ignorant POs or mechanics.
> 
> I would not bother with fiberglass for structural parts, and the pan
> is a structural part.
> 
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: UGH!!!!! doing that vin number twist...
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:17 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> > > * Not with a VIN number that starts with a "311".  That would be a
> > >1971 and
> > > * no other....
> > >
> > >Hmm.  Check this.  Straight from the list.
> >
> > >Model designations, Typ 3, all models (US & European - includes UK):
> > >
> > >Model No.    Name                    Production details
> > >
> > >311                   VW 1600 TL             August
> > >1965-1973, LHD
> > >311                   VW 1600 T                August
> > >1968-1973, LHD
> > >Do what you will with it!
> > >Patrick
> >
> > And I will do what I will with it!  The key here is that this list refers
> > to model numbers, not VIN numbers.  311 being of course a fastback.  And
> > now to quote from the book of Muir...
> 
> Yes, the old confusion between MODEL numbers and CHASSIS numbers (AKA
> VINs.)  I still don't have the model number thing straight even in my
> OWN head.  This is one place where I think VW did a bad job: all
> their numbers look alike, model #s, VINs, part #s.
> 
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding..
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:17 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> >  Well after finishing up replacing the brake lines to the rear today,
> > I went to bleed them. Undid the bleeder valve...put the hose on, and went to
> > pump the pedal......no fluid came out. Pumped it about 25-30 more times and
> > nothing. I tried this on the FL, RL and RR. The resovoir is full, and only
> > the side for the front went down a little....because when I opened the valve
> > some ran out. I know its going to the back because I undid the connection
> > from the  new tube a little and some came out. Whats going on??? Everything
> > on the front end is new and clear from obstructions, as well is everything
> > from the
> > MC back up to the rear flex lines. I was careful in keeping the lines clean,
> > so I hope they are clear. When I pushed the pedal, it made kind of a gushing
> > sound, and the pedal feels very mushy even after all those pumps.........
> 
> Did you OPEN the bleed valve?
> Try cleaning the dirt out of the core of the bled valve with a small
> drill bit twisted in your fingers.
> Try taking the bleed valve ALL the way out and clearing the hole
> under it out with the same drill bit, then leave the valve out and
> pump.
> 
> There are lots of things that can thwart you.  Just be imaginative.
> 
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dual carbs.
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:57:18 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> On  9 Jul 98 at 13:05, type3@vwtype3.org wrote:
> 
> > I thought that perhaps tapping the carb body could be the answer but
> > there isn't enough material and  the aluminum is sure to break the first
> > time I would turn the fitting.
> >
> > Can I insert a slightly larger fitting and press fit it back on the carb
> > body?  Can I weld more material around that area so that it CAN be
> > tapped?   Can I fire bomb the bum who rebuilt it?
> 
> It probably won't weld, and that would just ruin it anyway.  Liquid
> solder is a joke, so just throw that stuff away.
> 
> You might try one of the Locktite products.  One of these will do
> the job for sure.  You will need to buy the right product (used to
> be called "stud and bearing mount") and get your parts very clean.
> I would use Scotchbrite or steel wool on both parts, degrease them,
> add a TINY drop of the Locktite, push the parts together and
> position them the way you want them to be FOREVER, and let them sit
> for 24 hours so the Locktite can cure.  Then reassemble the carb and
> forget about your leak.
> 
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding..
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 98 20:19:03 PST8PDT
> From: ccandgc@marinternet.com (Chad)
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> >Did you OPEN the bleed valve?
>         uh huh...
> 
> >Try cleaning the dirt out of the core of the bled valve with a small
> >drill bit twisted in your fingers.
> >Try taking the bleed valve ALL the way out and clearing the hole
> >under it out with the same drill bit, then leave the valve out and
> >pump.
> >
> 
>         It turned out to be the rear flex lines were both plugged. I
> replaced them and the fluid came gushing out.
> 
> Thanks !
> 
> Chad
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Year sticker
> Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 21:27:46 -0600
> From: zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> There are manufacture stickers on the door jams of both of my 67
> squares.
> 
> Brian
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Inlet- Solex 32 dual carbs.
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 03:32:28 GMT
> From: stans4@ibm.net (Stan Schaefer)
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> Have used JB Weld epoxy on electric pumps, supposed to be fuel-proof.
> Parts have to be absolutely spotless and you should let it set a
> couple of days, but things will never come apart again!  All the local
> auto parts stores carry it here, most hardware stores have small
> tubes, too.
> 
> On Thu, 9 Jul 1998 13:05:58 -0400 , you wrote:
> 
> >I have suffered yet another goddam setback in my restoration of my daily
> >driver.  I was all set to take it out and drive the damn thing when a
> >fuel leak I thought I had fixed several months ago reared its ugly head.
> >It seems that several years ago when I had the carbs rebuilt the
> >mechanic reinserted the brass fuel fitting using some teflon tape and
> >stuck it in there.   I looked at it and didn't think too much of it
> >until it started to leak recently and then I realized what a problem I
> >have.   I tried using Liquid Solder but that only worked until yesterday
> >when I noticed the leak.
> >
> >I thought that perhaps tapping the carb body could be the answer but
> >there isn't enough material and  the aluminum is sure to break the first
> >time I would turn the fitting.
> >
> >Can I insert a slightly larger fitting and press fit it back on the carb
> >body?  Can I weld more material around that area so that it CAN be
> >tapped?   Can I fire bomb the bum who rebuilt it?
> >
> >Everybody get cracking on this.  We are not leaving until this is
> >fixed!!!!
> >
> >As a side note:  This, to me, seems to be a weakness of the otherwise
> >splendid Solex dual carbs.  If I, or we, can come up with a solution I
> >think we should send out a TSB on it.   These carbs are getting rarer by
> >the day and we need to keep them on the road.
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Fw: T3 Catalogs
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 00:11:16 -0400
> From: "Gus Georgakoulias" <ggkoul@sprint.ca>
> To: "Type3" <type3@vwtype3.org>
> 
> Almost forgot, I also have a VW Parts Catalog for Type 2.
> 
> >To all VW Restorers:
> >I have an OFFICIAL VW Type 3 Parts List that I'm willing to
> >sell copies of.  It lists every part used in any T3 (311-314: 361-364)
> >broken down by the major groups:
> >Even tells you the colour combinations used from year-to-year.
> >It's over 650 pages of parts information on the Type 3.
> >
> >The way I'm going to price it is, From now, July 9, to July 16, I will be
> >taking the names of people who are interested in getting a copy of this
> >book.  Seeing how many copies I need to produce, the more copies
> >ordered, the cheaper the coping cost, the cheaper the price will be.
> >Don't worry, before I do anything, I will let you know the cost of the book
> >plus
> >any shipping costs.
> >
> >I also have VW PARTS CATALOGS for the Type 1 Ghia, Beetle,
> >Type 3 Ghia,  Type 4, the Transporter and the Campmobile.  They
> >also contain every part used in the car by the major groups.
> >
> >If you are interested in a copies of any off these just email me and I
> >can work out a better price if two catalogs or more are ordered.
> >
> >PLEASE FEEL FREE TO PASS THIS EMAIL ALONG TO
> >ANYONE ELSE WHO MAY BE INTERESTED!!!
> >Because the more people ordering, the cheaper the price.
> >
> >Email me if you have any questions,
> >Thanks
> >Gus
> >-1966 T3 Ghia
> >-1995 Golf III
> >
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: more HELP!!!!!brake bleeding..
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 06:27:17 +0200
> From: "John M. Kowalski" <john.kowalski@zg.tel.hr>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> At 08:57 PM 7/9/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >
> >>  Well after finishing up replacing the brake lines to the rear today,
> >> I went to bleed them. Undid the bleeder valve...put the hose on, and
> went to
> >> pump the pedal......no fluid came out. Pumped it about 25-30 more times and
> >> nothing. I tried this on the FL, RL and RR. The resovoir is full, and only
> >> the side for the front went down a little....
> >Try taking the bleed valve ALL the way out and clearing the hole
> >under it out with the same drill bit, then leave the valve out and
> >pump.
> >
> >There are lots of things that can thwart you.  Just be imaginative.
> >
> >Jim
> 
> I had the same problem in my '72 convertible.  I even went so far as to
> assume that the master cylinder was shot and replaced it.  When the new MC
> didn't help, I discovered that I had not adjusted the brake linings yet --
> they were still too far from the brake drums.  When I pumped the pedal, the
> brake linings moved as they should.  I guess the path of least resistance
> for the brake fluid was to fill the wheel cylinders thus pushing the brake
> linings instead of going through the bleeder valve.  Once I adjusted the
> brake linings to where they started scraping the brake drum, I pushed on
> the pedal, the linings pushed against the brake drums and the fluid came
> squirting out the bleeder valve.  Voila!
> 
> Like Jim said, just be imaginative.  Just don't let yourself get frustrated.
> 
> Good luck
> 
> John
> Zagreb, Croatia
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Delloto jets; again
> Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 22:04:59 -0600
> From: zoofye <zoofye@pophost.micron.net>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> I still need a source for Dellorto FRD main jets.  Toby suggested CB
> Performance, but alas, I have contacted them several times and never
> gotten a response.  Any one else have a suggestion.  If I were running
> lean I would just tap them out a little at a time, but I have no brass
> solder equipement to fill them and re-drill.  I have been told that some
> solex main jets will work, but don't know.
> 
> Brian
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: T3 Catalogs
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 00:08:40 -0400
> From: "Gus Georgakoulias" <ggkoul@sprint.ca>
> To: "Type3" <type3@vwtype3.org>
> 
> To all VW Restorers:
> I have an OFFICIAL VW Type 3 Parts List that I'm willing to
> sell copies of.  It lists every part used in any T3 (311-314: 361-364)
> broken down by the major groups:
> Even tells you the colour combinations used from year-to-year.
> It's over 650 pages of parts information on the Type 3.
> 
> The way I'm going to price it is, From now, July 9, to July 16, I will be
> taking the names of people who are interested in getting a copy of this
> book.  Seeing how many copies I need to produce, the more copies
> ordered, the cheaper the coping cost, the cheaper the price will be.
> Don't worry, before I do anything, I will let you know the cost of the book
> plus
> any shipping costs.
> 
> I also have VW PARTS CATALOGS for the Type 1 Ghia, Beetle,
> Type 3 Ghia,  Type 4, the Transporter and the Campmobile.  They
> also contain every part used in the car by the major groups.
> 
> If you are interested in a copies of any off these just email me and I
> can work out a better price if two catalogs or more are ordered.
> 
> PLEASE FEEL FREE TO PASS THIS EMAIL ALONG TO
> ANYONE ELSE WHO MAY BE INTERESTED!!!
> Because the more people ordering, the cheaper the price.
> 
> Email me if you have any questions,
> Thanks
> Gus
> -1966 T3 Ghia
> -1995 Golf III
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: questions....
> Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 21:57:12 -0700
> From: "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@teleport.com>
> To: type3-list <type3@vwtype3.org>
> 
> Chad wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I was messing around with the pedal assembly, and the
> > pedal fell foreward and the cable managed to come loose. How do I reconnect
> > it??
> >
> > I bought remanufactured late model calipers from Bill & Steve's, and they
> > had only 1 bleeder valve on them. Is that normal? I thought they had 2. Well,
> > I put them on, with the bleeder valve on the down side. Is this ok? Should it
> > be on the top? Does it make a  difference?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Chad
>         The single bleeder on disk calipers should be on top.  See last weeks
> archive at http://www.vwtype3.org for hooking the clutch back up.
> 
> Peter Parker
> '66 Square; Phillip
> Portland, OR
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Fiberglass bashing ( a bit long - sorry)
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 01:02:14 EDT
> From: JJaranson@aol.com
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> Hello all.  I just had to get my .03 cents in here.  I have to first say that
> I don't necessarily disagree with many of the specific comments made about
> fiberglass for structural parts.  I do however disagree with the
> generalization that is kind of forming the fiberglass parts are no good.
> 
> First of all the fiberglass is only the reinforcement in the composite
> ("fiberglass" has come to be a generic term for glass reinforced plastics,
> much like "bondo" is for any body filler)  The composite material is actually
> made up of glass fibers and usually polyester resin.  Some composites have
> pigments and other fillers in them as well.  Higher performance composites use
> vinylester and epoxy resins instead of polyester.
> 
> I have built entire automobile body structures (not just the fenders, hood,
> and stuff) out of fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) composites while working
> at Ford.  These prototypes have no steel reinforcements or rails between the
> wheels, left to right or front to back.  These materials, if used and designed
> correctly, can be very structural.  They also offer a bunch of benefits over
> steel, like better corrosion protection (no rust), lighter weight (25%),
> better vibrational characteristics, and better overall vehicle stiffness if
> done right.  They also offer more design flexibility and much lower tooling
> (investment) costs compared to steel.  You don't see more composites in cars
> today because the raw material costs are higher than steel and the processing
> times are considerably longer (1-20 minutes vs. 10 seconds).
> 
> As for the parts (floor pans in particular) offered by the aftermarket
> industry for VWs, I have to agree that these parts are not well designed or
> built for structural applications.  I actually purchased a section of
> composite(fiberglass) floorpan from Fiber Innovations for work.  The quality
> of the part was not very good.  I wrote a more detailed message 6-8 months ago
> describing my objections to this part and the supplied installation procedure.
> I can forward it to anyone that is interested when I get back to work on
> Monday.
> 
> I think that for non-structural parts (fenders mostly), the composite parts
> out there are fine (from a performance standpoint) even if the quality level
> is not so hot and the parts will require a bunch of fitting and finishing.
> 
> OK, I will get off my soapbox for now....I would be happy to discuss the use
> of composites in more detail if anyone has specific questions.  It is what I
> earn my living doing and a favorite topic for me.  Watch this space for future
> updates on the use of composites in my own 71 Fastback.
> 
> later,
> John Jaranson
> 71 Fastback
> Defender of Composites (Fiberglass)  :-)
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: floor pans
> Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 22:04:04 -0700
> From: "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@teleport.com>
> To: type3-list <type3@vwtype3.org>
> 
> Kris Schobert wrote:
> This car is a roller no
> > eng or trans is it wrth the effort to do the total car or part it out?
> >
> > Thanks
> >      Kris
> 
>         Where are you located?  From Jeff's posting from Sacramento, you can
> get an early model roller for a couple hundred bucks! (Cali = no rust).
> In the Pacific NW, there is more rust, but a solid roller would be
> $500.  You're not one of those poor sod's down in Florida are you?
> 
> Peter Parker
> '66 Square; Phillip
> Portland, OR
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Plastic Seat Rails and other parts
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 01:31:24 EDT
> From: JJaranson@aol.com
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> 
> Thought I would update all on the rails.  J_Gurrola claimed all of my seat
> rails and has sinced laid first rights to my aluminum sill plates and my lower
> rocker trim and clips.  I did get all of the dimensions and stuff for the
> rails for reproduction/replacement.  The rails are actually an injection
> molded plastic part with a lot more details in them than I had envisioned.
> Making an exact repro would be very expensive, particularly for the low volume
> that we would need.  I do think that a suitable replacement can be made much
> more inexpensively from sheet teflon or other material.  I will keep everybody
> update on the progress of this one.
> 
> As for the other parts, I am going to be removing much of the stock trim and
> interior parts from my 71 Fastback.  Let me know what you need and we'll try
> to work something out.
> 
> Later,
> John Jaranson
> 71 Fastback (to be mildly customized)
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject:
> Date:


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