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Re: '66 engine repairs

> Just the latest from the '66 saga.  Sorry, no news from the inside of
> the case yet, seems the fan bolt isn't quite ready to leave yet.  I'm
> going to have to get an impact wrench to get it off, because Wilson, my
> roommate Thor, and I couldn't get it by hand. 

You really don't want to pound on the end of your crank and bearings
with an impact wrench.  That bolt isn't that tight, but a 1/2"
breaker bar with a 1-3/16" socket is probably what it will take. 
You will need to lock the flywheel to keep the crank from turning 
while you do this.

> Some interesting stuff
> from the outside and the #1 & 2 cylinder side of the engine, though.
> The thermostat had self-destructed at some point, so badly that when we
> first pulled the engine Monday night, I thought that there was an
> accordion-like piece of plastic, like a shock boot wedged between the
> lowest cylinder tin and the pushrod tubes.  Unfortunately, I squished it
> back into shape before we got some pictures.  It was in the shape of a
> "U" about 4 inches in diameter.  It's toasted.  

My interpretation of this has usually been that the engine has been 
overheated.  Make sure that you have ALL the sheet metal bits 
present and installed correctly as you put the engine back together.  
Study the exploded views in the Bentley manual.

>The pushrod tube for #2
> intake had been crushed by the force of the apparently rampant
> thermostat and the pushrod shows wear marks from the pushrod tube. 

The cause of these wear marks is probably as you say, but if you find 
them on other pushrods as well, then it is a sign of over-reving.  
The stock pushrods will flex and hit things if the engine is revved 
too high.

> The engine
> number is T0095591, Muir says that's a 1965 1600.

The early cases have 6mm studs for the oil pump, a bit of a weak 
point.  You can use a late pump with 8mm holes, but you HAVE to be 
careful to line up the pump correctly since it is no longer piloted 
by the studs.  The early engine (-66) came with a single drilled 
crank which provides less oiling to the  rods and also fits the 
(different) flywheel differently.  So there are lots of differences 
that you should be aware of, many of which affect reliability.

> It's got single port
> heads and 32-PDSIT carbs rebuilt by Bill & Steve's.  I want to get a set
> of dual port heads and manifolds for these carbs, does that sound
> reasonable?  The cylinders should be slip-in, as I understand, and I'll
> keep compression on the low side for best reliability.

DON'T use slip in P/C sets.  They will crap out in a disappointingly 
short time since they have thinner walls which will eventually warp.  
Stick to stock, or bite the bullet and get the case and heads 
machined to fit your pistons and cylinders.

> Can a 009 be run
> on a 6V system, or will I have to keep the stock dizzy?

The 009 should work; the only question is whether the larger current 
(lower voltage. higher current) will damage the points quickly.  OTOH 
you may find that the OE dist is a pretty good match to your needs.

Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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