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Re: adjusting thermostat / Lansing MI show 3/1


Since you had to take the tin off the bottom you're half-way there,
right?  You have to adjust the position of the flap connecting rod and
that screw is up top, so you're going to end up pulling the tin off.
The good news is that it's lots less involved than getting the
left-side tin off.  Probably take you a half-hour at most.  I suppose
you could take the elbow off the fan housing and look up in there with
a mirror or fiberscope, but that's almost as much work as getting the
tin off, which you'd still have to do if you needed adjustments.  Of
course we're in the 50's and 60's here, I wouldn't like trying to get
those tin screws back in in really cold weather.  My only short cut is
a pair of small needle-nose Vicegrips to hold the front end of the
tins together while lining up the screwholes with a #1 Phillips
driver.  A magnetic slotted driver helps, too, for that one that's
clear at the front down in that hole next to the block.  Once the
front is together I do the rear, then the intake runners and
surrounding tin, saving the bottom stuff for last.  Don't know of any
shortcuts, maybe someone will make some aftermaket tins with trapdoors
to the oil cooler and the thermostat adjustment.


On Sat, 28 Feb 1998 20:36:14 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>
>
>	Ugh--Bentley & Haynes both indicate that I need to remove
>the right side upper cylinder tin to properly adjust a new thermostat--
>you need to confirm that the flaps leave a 1-2mm gap when "closed."
>
>	Any shortcuts here?
>
>	And on another topic... if any of you are g to the Lansing,
>Michigan "Buggy" show tomorrow, I'll be meeting some folks at the
>announcer's booth at around noon.  Come & say hi!
>
> -Greg
>'69 & '71 Squarebacks
>'63 Beetle
>



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