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Cooling tin screws are nothing more than metric bolts with phillips heads. I ended up replacing most of mine with regular hex head bolts. Most decent hardware stores carry them. Stock up on various lengths, washers, and also get a tap and a die to clean up the threads. It's well worth a few bucks getting taps and dies. I know it's an M8. The larger common bolt is an M10, they're used on the exhaust system, hangers, manifolds, etc. Buys a bunch of each of various lengths. I can't remember the pitches (threads per mm). Bring along a bolt to check against. Save yourself a lot of hassle, and run the tap or die over/in all threads BEFORE attempting assembly. I use plain rubbing alcohol as a lubricant to flush out crud, and chips. The alcohol acts as a lubricant for cutting, evaporates, and does a little cleaning, and is fairly cheap. I put some in one of those empty containers found at drug stores to reduce the amount used. Find a decent FLAPS and buy some of the copper nuts for exhaust. They are nice and easy to remove. Get some anti-seize and use it on steel-to-steel screwed connections. Not quite as important on alu-to-steel. Gently tapping the alu parts (I know the case is mag, but close enough for this discussion) prevents crud from getting caught on the threads and stripping out the alu. Find some that is NOT lead based, I know it exists, but haven't found it myself, all I have is leaded. Hate getting it on me. - Jeff Iwanna21/23windowsunroofDeluxe! for daily driving '80 Westi (2) BOTH FOR SALE '67 Sqbk '64 Ford Crewcab '87 Subaru 4WD '97 Nissan Quest Grass Valley, California, USA Jeffrey.Carver@Aerojet.com - - - - - - - - -snip - - - - - - - - Also I need to get some cooling tin screws where can I find these. I want to make sure I get allot of the parts before I get the engine rebuilt.