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Cooling tin screws

Cooling tin screws are nothing more than metric bolts with
phillips heads.  I ended up replacing most of mine with
regular hex head bolts.  Most decent hardware stores carry
them.  Stock up on various lengths, washers, and also get
a tap and a die to clean up the threads.  It's well worth a few 
bucks getting taps and dies.  I know it's an M8.  
The larger common bolt is an M10, they're used on the exhaust
system, hangers, manifolds, etc.  Buys a bunch of each of
various lengths.  I can't remember the pitches (threads per mm).
Bring along a bolt to check against.

Save yourself a lot of hassle, and run the tap or die over/in
all threads BEFORE attempting assembly.  I use plain
rubbing alcohol as a lubricant to flush out crud, and chips.
The alcohol acts as a lubricant for cutting, evaporates, and
does a little cleaning, and is fairly cheap.  I put some in one
of those empty containers found at drug stores to reduce
the amount used.

Find a decent FLAPS and buy some of the copper nuts for
exhaust.  They are nice and easy to remove.

Get some anti-seize and use it on steel-to-steel screwed 
connections.  Not quite as important on alu-to-steel.
Gently tapping the alu parts (I know the case is mag, but
close enough for this discussion) prevents crud from
getting caught on the threads and stripping out the alu.
Find some that is NOT lead based, I know
it exists, but haven't found it myself, all I have is leaded.
Hate getting it on me.

- Jeff   Iwanna21/23windowsunroofDeluxe! for daily driving
'80 Westi  (2)   BOTH FOR SALE
'67 Sqbk    '64 Ford Crewcab 
'87 Subaru 4WD   '97 Nissan Quest
Grass Valley, California, USA
- - - - - - - - -snip - - - - - - - -
Also I need to get some cooling tin screws where can I find these. I want
to make sure I get allot of the parts before I get the engine rebuilt.

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