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And as we have found out if you loose your rotor you are dead as well (not many people I know, aside from myself, carry Lock-tight with them :). The argument given is quite weak. The electronic points never, ever need replacing or adjusting once installation is complete. There are no moving parts to wear or pit so operation is always consistent. One reason why I switched to electronic points, aside from the pain of having to keep them properly gapped and that they floated at high rpm, was that the nylon block that rides the distributor lobe had broke and thus the car was dead. No amount of filing or scraping was going to help me. Oh, for those who haven't seen electronic points, they don't require a condenser (capacitor) so the setup is a little bit cleaner as well (one less part to work with). Improved hp? I doubt the claim as well. But who said that a non-stock component must increase hp/torque? It's a reliability replacement. I'd be willing to bet my baby that the failure rate of the electronic units is lower than mechanical ones. Besides, you can still carry around spare mechanical points (and a condenser for them), just like you would with a stock setup, just in case the electronic ones die (and if they do I want to know as I have never talked to someone with an electronic system that failed). Toby "keeping purists at bay" Erkson, air_cooled_nut@pobox.com '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L '75 Porsche 914 1.8L Portland, Oregon, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8501/ ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: The ongoing kudos of the Pertronix Ignition' Author: type-3-errors@umich.edu at SMTPGATE Date: 10/28/97 10:38 AM On the other hand... I have run the standard Kettering system for about 125Kmi all told with NO problems. I change the points at tuneups every 15K or so and thats it. If the electronic ignition dies on the road, YOUR dead! if the kettering system quits you can always get it going with a little scraping at worst. If someone can come up with actual dyno testing of improved HP in a STOCK engine I may convert, but my car runs so smoothly as it is I cant see spending $65.