Re: Front Shocks...? (Drop that front end)

[JonesVWs@aol.com]

In a message dated 97-02-14 02:33:05 EST, machfive@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< Subj:	Front Shocks...?
 Date:	97-02-14 02:33:05 EST
 From:	machfive@ix.netcom.com
 To:	type-3@umich.edu
 
 There is a problem with my 73 Squareback, strictly aesthetic.  It seems that

 the front end is way higher than the back.  (I know the weight and load is
in 
 the back, hence the back end being lower... but it is more pronounced with
my 
 squareback than many other Squarebacks in town.)  I replaced the rear shocks

 and I'm happy with the ride/height in the back.  Also, I made sure the tire 
 pressures are correct.  Is it possible that the front shocks are incorrect?
 
 Could they be causing the front to sit too high?  I just want the car to
look 
 level, not lowered.  (That will come later when I get the front end
completely 
 re-done.) Any advice would be appreciated. >>

Speed,

I had the same problem with my '67 square. On mine, the rear is a swing axle
which is sitting at right about neutral chamber (tires not slanted in or out
when viewed from the back). The front end used to sit in the clouds. I say
"used to" because I dropped the front end one (outer) spline on each torsion
bar. I was surprised how fast (and easy) it was to do. I just followed the
procedure in the Haynes Type 3 manual and the whole thing took less than 2
hours. A VW friend of mine came over and watched me do it and he couldn't
believe it. He said if he knew it was that easy, he would have done it years
ago on his square! :)

The front torsion bars are splined on both ends just like the rears. There
are a different number of splines on each end which allows you to "fine-tune"
your adjustment by spinning each end in different directions. I just happened
to luck out that rotating each lower swing arm one spline (up) on the t-bars
achieved a level look on the car.

If you try this procedure, you will need a socket and breaker big enough to
fit the top retaining nuts on the ball joints. I removed both these nuts
(upper and lower) on each side and moved the whole spindle, caliper, and
rotor assembly out of the way (no need to disconnect the brake line or tie
rod,  just "protect" the brake line). With this out of the way, there is a
big allen head set screw holding each arm on it's t-bar and a bolt and a
retainer bracket holding the other end of the bar in the housing. The
break-away view of the front axle in my Haynes really makes it clear. 

I would advise strongly that you consult a manual before you try this
procedure. And when complete, the car will need to be realigned (mainly
toe-in will change).

Let me know if you need any more help (more details, etc.)

Mike