Tips for taking good resto pics.

[john.kowalski@zg.tel.hr (John M. Kowalski)]

Hello Everyone:

Here is some helpful information that may be of service to anyone planning
to take pictures of their T3s  (Now, who would want to do such a sill thing?)

Take care,

John


>From: Les Hall <leshall@MINDSPRING.COM>
>Subject:      Tips for taking good resto pics.
>X-To:         Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <VINTAGVW@SJSUVM1.SJSU.EDU>
>To: Multiple recipients of list VINTAGVW <VINTAGVW@SJSUVM1.SJSU.EDU>
>
>Gilbert Sy Chan observed...
>
>>p.s.  What camera did you use to take the pictures?  I've always had dark
>>pictures even with a strong flash.  Did you have backlighting?
>
>Hi Gilbert,
>
>Before I ramble on - what's Phillipine (sorry forgot the name of the
>language) for "Hi y'all". That's one interesting language you have there.
>
>Well I have made a living for too many years taking pictures so this is
>one thing I know a little about. It looks like Stephen took the picture
>using fill-flash. Traditional, i.e. Kodak, thinking was always that you
>had the sun behind you when shooting. This is an okay point to start at
>but I have found that the secret to getting a good shot is to try and
>take the picture in your mind before you pick up the camera.
>
>Look at your subject see where the shadows are falling. Film cannot
>record an image as we see it in our brain. Shadows are inevitably much
>darker than we perceive them. If you try and expose to have shadow detail
>record then you tend to over-expose (make too bright) the other areas of
>the image.
>
>For the kind of shots that Stephen took it is best, if you don't have
>lights, to shoot it outside. Try this. Position your self so that the sun
>is behind the object. Then get pieces of white or silvered card - as big
>as you can get. In the studio we start off with 4' x 8' sheets of
>foam-core and cut them down when needed. Place the cards so that they
>'bounce' or reflect the sun light back into the object. I will try and do
>some ascii art!
>
>
>                       *   Sun
>
>
>                   _________
>                   |   V   |
>                   |   W   |     Object
>                   |-------|
>               \              /
>                \            /       Cards
>                 \          /
>                  \        /
>
>                      \*/
>                       -           Camera
>
>This view is from above. Objects not to scale ;)
>
>What happens is that the sun creates hard light on the top and edges of
>the object which define it, but the cards bounce in a soft white light
>that should evenly illuminate your object and fill the shadows. Of course
>in the Phillipines the sun is much higher than in the US or Europe so
>your actual results will vary. Try shooting later in the day.
>
>Just messing around with 'fill-cards' will show you their possibilities
>and really help your photographs. Next time you are in a restaurant, just
>pick up a white napkin and hold it next to faces, objects etc and see how
>much light it bounces back.
>
>The big mistake that most amateurs make when they start to use lights is
>that they use too many. Almost without fail when I start to set up on a
>still-life I start with one light and add reflectors/fill-cards and only
>when needed start adding extra lights. We only have one sun - that's all
>you need.
>
>I know you didn't ask for this lecture, but it might help you and others
>recording their VW projects.
>
>Les, Dallas.
>
>
>
>
>Les' joint on the web http://bounce.to/leshall
>
>Tips for taking good resto pics.
>
>