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On 2 Dec 97, James L. McGill wrote:
> Of course, I need a 12v generator that will fit. What generator fits,
> where can it be bought and how much can it be bought for?
Easy, just start by measuring the diameter of your 6V unit and make
sure the 12 V gen you get is the same diameter.
> The flywheel sounds like a huge problem by all accounts. Machining of the
> bellhousing, a new flywheel, and a new starter? And most people do not
> even do this because the 6v starter works well at 12v?
Yes, 'til it fails. If your motivation was poor reliability, why set
yourself up for failures.
> I suppose I can get all the lights at my FLAPS. I think there are
> about 12 instrument lamps in the dash, one interior light, and all the
> outside lights can be replaced with 115x's. Headlights are easy enough.
>
> What about the wiper motor? The slow speed of my wipers and the
> difficult starting of the engine are the two main reasons I want
> to consider 12V. I heard or read that there was a rheostat that
> I can put in series with the switch. True? (I see p.118 in RMMW,
> a wiper switch for $44.95).
Only one good fix: get a 12 V wiper motor from a later T3 that you
can fit in place.
> New voltage regulator? Which one?
Use the one that the new generator needs.
> My carbs will be a problem, I guess: Where can I get 12v chokes
> and cutoffs for my 32PDSITs? I couldn't even find stock 6v. ones!
> (I see the cutoffs in RMMW but not choke heaters. Does it matter?)
Yes, you need then all. Trying to get by with the 6V ones will just
reduce these priceless pieces to ashes. If you do this, I advise you
to never mention it here.
> I already need a new turn signal / flasher relay. But all references
> and the words of a few kind Type-3-listers, indicate that I should
> have a 'black box', however, I have a Hella "Blue Box" with about
> a jillion terminals. I may have heard on the bus list that there
> was such a blue box on 6volt '67 type2's.
BIG can o' worms.
At this point I do not
> give a damn about 'stock', I just need to understand the function
> of this electrical system so that I can fix it....
Ahhh, understanding.... The magic word. If you're willing to go to
that trouble, then you'll find it MUCH easier to just understand,
find, and fix the PROBLEM. Easier, cheaper, faster, more tracable
when you're done. My kind of solution.
> If I could get my lights brighters, my wipers faster, my starting more
> reliable, and get my !@#$% infernal flasher relay to stop oscillating
> (which is driving me bananas) I probably would not be thinking about
> converting the car to 12v.
Sounds like you already know the answer.
> I realize that I've asked these questions before, but I am really stuck
> in the decision making process.
>
> I keep thinking that if I change the battery cable, clean the contacts
> on the VR, change the generator brushes, install the starter relay,
> run an auxilliary wire from the wiper motor or switch to a strong V+,
> and replace the flasher relay, and tighten the belt, that all my electrical
> problems will go away. Won't they?
Keep one thing in mind. These cars worked just fine as 6 V cars when
they were new. Now in spite of what the Monster cable people might
like you to think, copper wire does not change conductivity
spontaneously within the span of a human lifetime. You may have
problems with connectors that make poor contact now and voltage
regulators that need to be replaced. Your flasher unit may need to
have some of it's capacitors replaced. Electronics requires study
and understanding, but it is NOT black magic.
Study, learn, understand. One thing at a time. Work carefully and
learn from your mistakes.
Jim
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Melissa Kepner Jim Adney
Laura Kepner-Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin
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